SUBIEKTYWNY PRZEWODNIK PO BERLINIE

city
Kater Holzig
Czyżby Berlin nie był już najbardziej cool miastem na świecie? Magazyn "Rolling Stone” ogłosił, że stolica Niemiec spadła w rankingu światowych metropolii. Możliwe, że dla niektórych pewna era w Berlinie już się zakończyła (zamknięto Bar 25, Kater Holzig oraz Tacheles; czynsze zaczęły znacząco wzrastać, a strategicznie położone działki w tak popularnych dzielnicach jak Kreuzberg, czy Friedrichshain powoli przejmują developerzy), z moich obserwacji wynika jednak, że dla innych moda na Berlin dopiero się zaczęła – mam na myśli młodych Polaków. Co można więc zobaczyć w Berlinie, co nie jest jeszcze masowo oblegane przez turystów i co wciąż może mieć niszowy, berliński urok? Zapraszam na subiektywny przewodnik po Berlinie.

PERISTAL SINGUM

Berlin znany jest z rozbudowanej sceny klubowej. Tanie loty łączące Berlin z resztą Europy sprawiły, że technoturyści zaczęli szturmować miasto na szeroką skalę (więcej o tym można przeczytać w książce "Zagubieni w dźwięku. Berlin, techno i technoturyści” Tobiasa Rappa). Zamiast do zatłoczonego klubu pełnego przyjezdnych, proponuję wybrać się do magicznego labiryntu Peristal Singum, który mieści się w tym samym lokalu, co klub Zur Wilden Renate. By nie psuć zabawy, nie będę rozpisywała się o tej sekretnej plątaninie korytarzy i tuneli. Pozostawiam wejście do króliczej nory (niczym tej z "Alicji w Krainie Czarów”) każdemu z Was. Na własną odpowiedzialność.

 


Klunkerkranich

 


Prinzessinnengarten

BERLIŃSKIE KLUBY

Imprez w berlińskich klubach rzecz jasna nie odradzam. Każdy, kto tu przyjeżdża musi przynajmniej raz w życiu zaliczyć tego typu imprezę, by w pełni poczuć klimat miasta. Sugeruję jednak wybór miejsc, które niekoniecznie znajdują się w rekomendacjach przewodników (wyjątek stanowi kultowy Berghain, niestety, zawsze trzeba się liczyć z bardzo długimi kolejkami przed bramką i wziąć pod uwagę to, że do klubu w ogóle się nie wejdzie. A o ochroniarzu Svenie Marquardt’ie, który tam czuwa krążą legendy...). Gdzie zatem wybrać się, aby ominąć natłok turystów? Polecam miejsca takie jak np. Rummels Bucht – klub położony nad jeziorem, niedaleko stacji Ostkreuz. Lepszy latem, bo w ciepłe dni można bawić się pod gołym niebem. Kawałek dalej znajduje się Sisyphos – miejsce znane z imprez trwających cały weekend. Inne ciekawe miejsca to m.in. Freudenreich (Neukölln), Naherholung Sternchen (Mitte), a latem również Klunkerkranich – na dachu centrum handlowego przy stacji Rathaus Neukölln.

 

 

BERLIŃSKIE RESTAURACJE & BARY

Jak w każdym dużym mieście, znajdziemy w Berlinie lokale serwujące potrawy z każdego zakątka świata. W czołówce moich ulubionych miejsc znajduje się hiszpański bar tapas Gastón. Warto do niego zajrzeć, jeśli mamy trochę czasu i nie przeszkadza nam opieszała obsługa. Rewelacyjna atmosfera i pyszne jedzenie (w menu m.in. chorizo, patatas bravas i różnego rodzaje owoce morza). Kolejne miejsce to Burgeramt przy Boxhagener Platz na Friedrichshain – dla miłośników burgerów (także wegetariańskich). Uwagę przykuwają tutaj nie tylko kombinacje w menu, ale również grafficiarskie akcenty – na ścianach lokalu znajdziemy prace między innymi Drika, Mr.Ice, czy nowojorskiej legendy – T-Kid. Z bardziej egzotycznych knajp polecam etiopską restaurację Langano (Kreuzberg), marokańską Kasbah (Mitte), czy koreańską Kimchi Princess (Kreuzberg).

 


Park am Gleisdreieck

BERLIŃSKIE PARKI

Berlin staje się zupełnie innym miastem, gdy wskaźniki na termometrze pokazują temperatury wyższe niż 18 stopni. Mieszkańcy miasta wychodzą wówczas z zimowego uśpienia i większość czasu spędzają na zewnątrz – w licznych parkach, nad jeziorami, bądź na imprezach pod chmurką. W letnie dni polecam zieloną przestrzeń miejską, na terenach byłego lotniska Tempelhof, a także Schlesicher Busch, park am Gleisdreieck, czy Volkspark Friedrichshain. Koncepcje miejskiej uprawy roślin (urban gardening) odkryć można w Prinzessinnengarten przy Moritzplatz.

 


Teufelsberg

OPUSZCZONE MIEJSCA

Specjalistą od opuszczonych miejsc w Berlinie jest Spudnik – autor bloga abandonedberlin.com. Tych porzuconych przestrzeni jest w Berlinie mnóstwo i mają one sporo uroku – bez renowacji, konserwacji, w stanie rozpadu. Ogromne wrażenie zrobił na mnie Teufelsberg (Diabelska Góra), w miejscu byłej stacji szpiegowskiej. Dziś wejście na ten teren jest pilnie strzeżone, ale do środka można wejść jedynie odpłatnie w zorganizowanej grupie. Podobnie jest z Spreepark (opuszczonym parkiem rozrywki). Aby zobaczyć diabelski młyn, kolorowe dinozaury, czy zardzewiałe fragmenty kolejki można wybrać legalny, płatny wstęp, bądź spróbować na własną rękę, przedzierając się przez ogrodzenie. Koniecznie trzeba zobaczyć Eisfabrik, czy były szpital dziecięcy na Neukölln.

 


Voo Store 

 


Voo Store

 


Bass Cadet Recordstore

BERLIŃSKIE SKLEPY

Na sam koniec parę rekomendacji dla tych, którzy do Berlina będą chcieli wybrać się z zamiarem zakupów. Fanom sneakersów polecam świetny sklep Overkill (Kreuzberg), którego historia wiąże się z berlińskim graffiti. Do dziś można w nim kupić, oprócz butów i odzieży kultowych marek, również spraye i inne akcesoria. Kolejnym etapem turystyki handlowej może być second hand Paul’s Boutique na Prenzlauer Berg. Znajdziemy w nim dobrej jakości używane kurtki, buty oraz torebki. Na bardziej ekskluzywne zakupy polecam Voo Store (Kreuzberg), lifestylowy sklep z industrialnym wnętrzem. Po różnego rodzaju bibeloty i oryginalne akcesoria domowe warto wybrać się do Süper Store – małego sklepiku nad kanałem, niedaleko Kottbuser Damm. Można w nim znaleźć takie perełki, jak: stylowe nożyczki w kształcie bociana, drewniane figurki ozdobne, haftowane pledy, czy dzbanki w niespotykanych formach. Wspaniały sklep z akcesoriami DIY, prasą dla projektantów wnętrz, architektów oraz innymi niezwykłymi rzeczami, to oczywiście Planet Modulor. Jeśli planujemy zakup winyli, to tylko w kultowym Hard Wax przy Paul-Lincke-Ufer, bądź w Bass Cadet Recordstore (w sklepie również ubrania vintage, biżuteria i kosmetyki) na Neukölln. Miłośnikom pięknych wydań albumów i książek polecam do you read me? i Gestalten w Mitte.

 

Więcej zdjęć na: instagram.com/berlinsko

 

Autor: Justyna (autorka bloga http://berlinsko.blogspot.com/)

 

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